Binder or folder for sewing machines



. 1,559,820 A. H. WEIS BINDER on FOLDER FOR SEWING umcunms Filed March29, 1922 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Nov. 3, 1925.

INVENTOR ALBERTH Wm F BY 47 F 50 I I I In ATTONEY-" Nov. 3, 1925.1,559,820

A. H. WEIS BINDER 0R FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed uarch 29', 1922 v2Sheets-Sheet 2 I INVENTOR ALBERT H. Mas.

BY L moi 5Y5? Patented Nov. 3, 1925.

UNITED STATES 1,559,820 PATENT O FICE.

ALBERT H. arms, or NYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR To METROPOLITAN SEWING MA-CHINE CORPORATION, OF NYACK, NEW YORK, A coR-roEATIoN or DELAWARE.

BINDER on FOLDER FOR sEwING MACHINES.

Application filed March 29, 1922. Serial No, 547,666.

To all whom if may concern:

Be it known that I, ALBERT H. WEIs, a citizen of the United States,residing at Nyack, in the county of Rockland and State of New York, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Binders or Folders forSewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to the method and mechanism for applying a pilebinding strip to an article of wearing apparel, and particularly tofolders or binders for sewing ma chines adapted for use in guiding andfolding what is known in the trade as a mohair or plush binding used onvarious kinds of wearing apparel, such, for instance as felt slippers orshoes, an object of the invention being to provide a mechanism forapplying the binding to the edges of the materialin an efficient,facile, and relatively rapid man ner. As a result of the presentinvention therefore, the securing or stitching of the binding to thematerial is accomplished readily and effectively at a minimum of eX--pense.

Other objects of this invention will appear in the following descriptionthereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings forming a partof this specification, wherein like reference characters indicatecorresponding parts in the several views and wherein Fig. 1 is aperspective view of a sewing machine having my invention appliedthereto; Fig. 2 is a detail sectional view of a kind of mohair or plushbinding; Fig. 3 is a view illustrating by way of example a felt slipperwith the mohair or plush binding applied thereto; Fig. 4 is a crosssection illustrating by way of example a piece of felt with the mohairor plush binding stitched thereto; Fig. 5 is an end view of my folder,illustrating the manner in which the raw edges of the mohair or plushbinding are first folded over and then under preparatory to thestitching operation; Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the folder appliedto the work plate of a sewing machine, and illustrates how the folder islocated in a trough of the work plate so as to have the lower jaw of thefolder project into a cutout portion of the throat plate adjacent to theneedle hole thereof so as to properly control the bottom folded edge ofthe binding; Fig. 7 is a front elevation of the folder,

parts being broken away to show the channel or trough'guiding means forthe mohair or plush of the binding; Fig. 8 is a vertical sectlon takenon line 88 of Fig. 7 and in the direction of the arrows; Fig. 9 is avertical section taken on line 9 -9of Fig. 7 and in the direction ofthearrows; Fig. 10 is a detail view of themohair. or plush binding,illustrating the manner in which the mohair or plush; bristles ofthenap, orv pile are brushed back under the control of the folder, howthe raw edges thereof are folded over and under during the passage ofthe binding strip through the folder, and how it is turned at rightangles to the initial direction of this movement as it is fed up to thestitching mechanism of the sewing ma chine; andFig. 11 is a detail viewillustrating the action of the four motion top and bottom feed and theautomatic presser foot acting upon the binding to feed it through themachine.

The present folder may be designated as a combination right angle,binder or folder,

the same being adapted particularly for guiding and folding mohair orplush binding, whether it be elastic ,or, inelastic, or whether suchbinding be cut on the straight or on the bias, the present mechanismhandling both kinds with equal facility.

Heretofore mohair or plush binding was applied to the edges of feltslippers, or other apparel by means of a stapling machine for applyingmetal staples, thebinding being folded over the edge of the article andthe mohair or plush being brushed aside by hand, while the staples wereinserted to fasten the bindingin place. .The use of these staples wasobjectionable because. they would often protrude from the binding andcome into contact with the foot or injure the stocking covering the footof the wear er. Such staples were placed at suitably spaced intervals tohold the binding in place, but difficulty. was encountered in obtaininga smooth finish where the binding was applied to the curved orirregularedges of the articles, such as around the tongue of felt shoes or at theupper curved edge of the heel thereof.

Attempts have been made to stitch such binding to the edges of slippers,shoes, etc., by first laying the binding with the mohair or plush facethereof against the article,

the latter in place. After this operation the binding has one of itsedges stitched all around the edge of the slipper or shoe, and thereuponby folding the binding over the edge of the 's'hoe'ors'li'pperjby hand,the opposed'raw edge 'of'the binding w'as'folded under at the time of asecond stitching operation, thus securing such second folded edge of thebinding to the slipper "or shoe. Great difficulty was encountered inaccomp'lishing these: stitching=- operations, 'particularly'inthesecon'd operat-ion due to the fact thatthe stitches would passthroughthenwhair or ip'lu'sh on *the opposite side of the binding; thatis;thebottom 'side of the binding which 'cannot be "seen'duringthesecond stitching ope r'ati'on, :such stitches binding and stit' ingd'owir the bristles and thereby rende'ring the work defe'ctive.

The foregoing difficulties and disadvantages are over'c'ome by'virtue'of 'my invention, "the p'r'es'ent folder being provided with means toreceivethe "mohair or plush and 5 so control it "during the folding orstitchin of the binding to the article, that there is no possibility oi'the mohair or plush 'beiITg-GaUght by the stitches. Fur- Uh'QPIIlO'lG,the construction is such that stitchesfivill"bei piacedin'c-losepi'oximity to the mohair *or plush so "that thestitches will bepractically concealed on thefi-nish'ed article.

VV hile' the i pr-esent folder is adapted for use on various types j'ofsewing machines for" the. purpose' of bindi'ng such articles ofirregular form as slippers; shoes; hats, caps, and-the like, the sewing-=machine herein shown is"constructed"with a *four motion top and bottomfeedingmechanism 'opera tive' to properly clamp and feed the binding.

In the drawings, the sewing =ma'chine frame 1*- carriesthe "usual topshaft for driving the needle "bar 'an d the top feed mechanism; the base2 "of the 1 machine frame carries the botto'm shaft 01 operati ng theb'ot'tom feed" mechanism as well as the looper which 'coacts withtheneedle for snaking the 'stitches. *Detailed description o'f the "sewingmachine: parts is deemed urmecessary-since the-sameare described inPatent 1,222,339 to" J. 5P. eis; "dated April 10, 1917.

"The cloth; plate' ef-the sewing machine is provided with a slbtltoiprovide passage way forthe binding', the-slot having anangular;portion- 4c extending to the side of the clothzplate il. '=Tl16fOlCle1',gnerally indicated at 6 is supported "by a bracket "S whichis-secured to the cloth plate 3 by means of-screws 'i in sucha m'annerasto permit the"necessary adjustment of the binder with respect to "the"stitching position. Thethroatplate -il "is secured to the front end 'ofthe c loth plate 8. This throat plate is provided with a feed slot 10through which the bottom feed 11 operates, and also with a needle hole12. Just in front of the needle hole the throat plate is 'cut out at 13to receive the lower jaw of the binder. A" guiding finger 14 isadjustably screwed to the throat plate by screw 15, the execut t end 16of the guiding'linger being bentupward and over, or offset in order toleave suilicient space between the end thereof and-thetop surliace ofthethroat-plate for the passage oi 'the "folded edge of the bottom'portionof the binding. 'Byadjusting this linger laterally o'n-the throat'plate,the bite or margin-oi u presser foot 1-8 is provided which hasfan up anddown movement to clamp the-work, as'the needle is passing through thesame, and to be lifted from the work during the moven'ient thereoi underthe action of the feeds. The eye-pointed thread carrying needle 19-operates in the-usual manner and cooperates with 'a suitable 'looper(not shown) located underneath the throat plate for forming thestitches. Referring to Figs. l, 5, and 11, the folded edge ofthe bindingat the top is indicated at 20, the

bottom-foldededge at 21, the felt or goods to which the binding isstitched at 22, and the mohair or plush -at 23.

*ldy improved i older is constructed oii metal so shaped and assembledas to form a"structurehaving a channel or trough oxtendinga suitabledistance throughout its lengthand centrally thereof for controlling themohair or plushbristles of the "binding. The folder is supported-by aback wall or brace 2st secured to the angle bracket 8, the back wall 'orbrace being'attached to the folder in any suitable manner. Theentrance'end 25 of the iiolder is elongated infio'rmhaving an exteriorshape sin i'lar to a flattened loop. 7

'The upper and lo'werinner margins 26 and'27-are closed intofornrth'erebetween a rectangular-trough '28. This trough is for thereception oi the mohair or plush bristlesof the binding,- and is ofsuitable width and-depth to provide free passage of the bindingtherethrough. Tie raw edges of the binding project into the spaces 29and '30. This entranceend of the folder may 'be-made if desired "of asingle piece of flat metal with theunarg'ins 26' and 27 built therein byinserts, or 'otheiwise, the free edgesofsuch bent metal being securedtogether by another flat piece of metal 31, which may form a portion ofthe front wall of the folder. For a suitable distance of its of thefolder is cut out or notched at 34 and 35 and extending from thesepoints the outer edges 36 and 37 of the inwardly curved back wall d3 arebent forwardly and tapered or inclined in the direction of their lengthso as to form overhanging, inclined or funnel-shaped folding portions,which assist in giving the initial folds 38 and 39 to the raw edges ofthe binding. These bent portions 36 and 87 have extending tabs 10 and 41secured to the front concave convex wall 42, and it will be seen thatthe portions 36 and 87 so overhang or overlap in spaced relation theinner edges of the wall l2 as to provioe a space between suchoverlapping portions and also a space between the curved front wall l2and thecorrespondingly curved back wall for the free passage of thebinding there-' through. The front wall 42 is provided with an elongatedslot l4 in order to facilitate starting the binding through the folder.This front wall is also notched or cut out at 4:5 adjacent to notchedportions 34 and 35. The back wall 43 is provided with in wardlyextending projecting ribs 46 and 47, forming a continuation of thetrough 28 extending from the entrance end of the folder to a pointadjacent to the delivery end of the folder. These ribs may vary inheight in order to suit the character of the binding, as for instance ifthe bristles are long, the channel or trough'of the folder isaccordingly varied in depth. The ribs are also tapered and spaced apartaccording to the nature of the work, the purpose being to provide spacefor the passage of the mohair or plush bristles, and at the same timeprovide just sufficient space between the free edges of the ribs 46 and47 and the inside face of the front wall 42 for the passage of thebinding.

The delivery end of the folder terminates in a substantially U-shapedthroat d8 having the central axis thereof extending in a directionsubstantially parallel to the longitudinal axis of the binder. histhroat is provided with a wire edge 4-9 which terminates in hook shapedends and 51, the purpose of the wire edge being to form a wear resistingsurface over which the binding passes while making the right angle turnor change in its direction of feed or movement. The bent ends 50 and 51of the wires operate to control the folded edges of the binding and tomaintain such edges in proper position relative to the needle.

Secured to the rear wall of the top overhanging portion 36 of the folderis an adjustable guide 52 held in position by screws The forward end ofthis guide 52 has an offset or bent portion 54:, the free end of whichterminates in a guide hook 55. This guide hook 55 is located close tothe hook 50 in rear of and slightly lower than the same (see Figs. 5 and7) so as to also assist in controlling the top folded edge of thebinding as it the needle.

The bottom folded edge ofthe binding is controlled by the offsetoverhanging end 16 of the guide 14- secured to the throat plate. Thedelivery end of the holder and the hooks 50 and 51 as well as the guideIt will be particularly noted that the top guide hook 55 not only actsas a guiding" means for controlling the upper folded edge of the bindingbut also operates by virtue of its hooked formation to brush aside ordeflect the bristles of the mohair or plush to prevent them from gettinginto the path of the needle.

Referring to Fig. 10 it will be readily seen how the present mechanismoperates in effectually controlling the bristles of the binding whilethe binding is passing through the folder to the stitching mechanism.The binding enters the folder in substantially a vertical straightposition between the points 56 and 57. The bristles of the nap or pile23 of the binding are laid over or deflected by ribs 46 and 47 whilepassing through the folder as represented at 58, the initial folds 88and 39 then being formed. Due to the funnel or tapered shape of thefolder the bristles will be laidover or deflected increasingly uponapproaching the position 59 where the second folding as in dicated at 60is accomplished. Upon reaching and passing through the throat 48 thedirection of movement of the binding is changed at right angles, the topand bottom folded edges are folded into substantial juxtaposition overthe edge of the goods 22 as shown in Fig. 4- and the binding is turnedinside out. After it makes the right angle turn it leaves the folder atthe stitching position 61. The bristles 23'then assume their normalposition on the top side and edge of the binding as indicated at (32.The bottom bristles it will be noted are passes from the folder to lli)and are thuseffectually deflected so as to f be entirely out of the wayof the needle.

It isto be noted that the bottom and top feed as well as the .presserfeet are very small, each ofthe feeds havingbut several teethso as toact upon the binding as close to the needles. aspossible, thus enablingthe f to be carried orover irregular pieces of work without difiiculty,and at the same'time keeping the binding under control. and preventingthe bristles of the mohair or plush from getting into the path of theneedle.

The location. of the folder is approximately central with the line offeed of the worlnthat is to. say, .one half of the folder is locatedbelow .the top surface of the cloth and throat plate for easy entranceof the work and for permitting better control of the binding, this topsurfaceof the throat plate being indicated by line 69 in Fig.

Thecharacter and construction of the mechanism is such that there is aminimum of bulk and parts at and around the stitching position. Thus,sincethe folder :is located directly at the stitching position, suchwork as applying bindings to slippers, shoes, etc, can be done with rentrapidity as there is nothing to interfere with thehandling of the work.

In Fig. "3 is illustrated the manner of application of the mohairbinding to, a,sl:ip per 64C. It will be understood that the binding maybe applied to a slipper, or vany similar article, either before or afterthe sole has been applied, and that the commencement of the application.of binding may, if desired, be at the heel 65 of the slipper. Thebinding is then stitched around to the point indicated at 66 where asharp turn is made. around the tongue or front portion 671a=nd thenaround to the opposite cut. or sharp turn, and then back around theopposite side 68 and ending by overlapping the binding at 65 where it iscut off. The end may then be tacked down by a separate stitchingoperation. Of course the starting and ending of the stitching operationin applying the binding to the article can begin or end'at anyconvenient position. When the binding is applied to t 1e edges of theslipper as shown, it assumes the form shown in Fig. l, where it will beseen that the bristles spread out as to overhang the stitched margin andthereby conceal both sides of the line of stitches.

I claim my invention:

1. A binder adapted to binding, and having means effective to defleetthe pile of the binding away from the line of stitching during theattachment of an edge thereof to an article of apparel.

receive a pile round sharp curves It is then stitched 2. Awbinderadapted to receive .pile

' bindi'ng and: having means effective. to deflect the :pile of 'thebinding away from the line of stitching. at Sboth edges of the bindingduring. the attachment thereof to an article of apparel.

A ibiinder adapted -:to receive a pile binding, andluuviing meanseffective to do I flect the pile of the binding away from the line. ofstitching during the attachment .of an iedge thereof to an article of.apparel, and also having means for turning the binding inside out.

4. The combination .of a sbinder-adapted to receive a pile binding, andmeans eifec tive :to deflect thepile of thebindi-ng away from the lineof attachment during the attachment .thereof .to an article, said-mea-ns binding, means for folding both edges of the binding, means. forfolding the body of the binding toapply said folded edges to an article,landmeans for deflecting the pile of the binding awayfrom the line ofattachment atboth .edgesof ithebindin-g.

7. Binding eeohanism comprising the combination, .of for receiving apile binding, means .for foldingwan edge of the binding, means forturning-the binding inside. out to apply said folded edge to an article,and .means for deflecting the pile of the binding away from the line ofat taohment.

' 8.. Binding mechanism comp-rising the combination of meansfor-receiving a pile bin ling, means for. folding an edge of thebinding, means for folding the body of the binding to apply said foldededge to an article, andineans for deflecting the pile of the bindingaway from the-line of attachmentandalso effective to guide said foldededge.

9. -A binder adapted to receive a pile binding and having means forapplying the edges ofsaid binding to theopposite sines of an article,said binder havi ,3; means effective during the movement of the strip indifferent directions relative thereto to fold the edges thereof-and tofold said folded edges over the edge of the article, and a hooked guidemember located in position to coact with a; folded edge and to deflectthe pile of theibindi ng away from the line of stitching duringattachment.

10. A. folder or: binder for sewing ma- .llll) chines adapted to receivea pile binding, and comprising means effective during the feed of thebinding to fold the edges thereof, means for confining the pile of thebinding, means eflective upon the feed of the binding in a transversedirection to fold the binding and apply the folded edges thereof to anarticle, and means for deflecting the pile of the binding away from theline of attachment.

11. A folder or binder for sewing ma chines adapted to receive a pilebinding, and having means effective during the feed of the binding tofold the edges thereof and control the pile of the binding, said folderalso having means effective upon the feed of the binding in a transversedirection to fold the folded edges thereof over the edge of an article,and to deflect the pile of the binding, and said means including ahooked guide member.

12. In a sewing machine the combination of a support, a folder or bindercarried thereby for receiving a pile binding and having means effectiveduring the movement of the binding relatively thereto for folding theedges and controlling the nap of the binding, said folder also havingmeans effective upon movement of the binding in a transverse directionto fold the folded edges thereof over the edge of an article, means forsecuring said folded edges to the article, and means for deflecting oneedge of said nap out of the path of said securing means,

said support acting to deflect the opposite edge of the nap.

13. The combination of means for receiving and guiding a plush binding,means for automatically folding'the edges thereof and simultaneouslyapplying both folded edges thereof to an article, means located inposition for attaching said folded edges to the article along the edgeof the nap of the binding, and means for holding the nap away from theline of attachment.

14. The combination of a binder adapted to receive a pile binding, andmeans effective to guide the edge of the binding, and also to deflectthe pile of the binding away from the line of attachment during theattachment thereof to an article.

15. The method of applying and attaching a pile binding strip to anarticle which consists in simultaneously folding both edges of thebinding over the edge of the article, feeding the article and binding toan attaching mechanism, and deflecting the pile of the binding away fromthe line of attachment.

16. The method of applying and attaching a pile binding to an articlewhich consists in simultaneously folding both edges of the binding overupon the article, feeding the article and binding to an attachingmechanism, brushing back or deflecting simultaneously both edges of thepile of the binding away from the line of attachment. 7 17. The methodof applying and attaching a plush or pile binding to an article whichconsists in folding the edges of the binding, then folding said foldededge over the edge of an article, presenting the binding and article toastitching mechanism, and deflecting the pile or nap of the binding awayfrom the line of stitching.

18. The herein described method which consists in applying a pilebinding to an article, deflecting or brushing back progress,

sively a part only of an edge of the pile away from the line ofattachment, andat the same time attaching the edge of the binding to thearticle substantially along the edge of the pile.

19. The herein described method which consists in folding the edging ofa pile binding as it is fed in one direction, then folding said foldededge over upon an article as the binding is fed in another direction,feeding the same to the stitching mechanism of a sewing machine, andbrushing back or defleeting the pile of the binding away from the lineof stitching so that the pile will be free of the stitching and thebinding will be secured to the article substantially along the edge ofthe pile.

20. An attachment of the class described comprising a body comprising apair of opposed side walls forming a lengthwise ex tending passagewaytherethrough for receiving a pile binding strip, one of said wallshaving a pair of projecting portions extending transversely into saidpassageway and forming arelatively shallow portion for receiving thefree edge .of the strip and a relatively deep portion for receiving thepile of the strip.

21..Binder mechanism for pile binding strips'compris'ing a hollow memberhaving a guide channel for limiting the spreading of the pile, means forfolding an edge of the strip, and means for folding said folded edgeover upon an article, means for guiding the folded edge and means fordeflecting the pile, one of said last means being fixed and the otheradjustable.

22. Binder mechanism for pile binding strips comprising means forapplying an edge thereof to an article, and means for deflecting thepile of the strip away from the edge of the pile.

23. Binder mechanism for pile binding strips comprising means forapplying an edge thereof to an article, and adjustable means fordeflecting the pile of the strip away from the edge of the pile.

24. Binder mechanism for pile binding strips comprising a body having arelatively shallow channel extending lengthwise thereof and a relativelydeep channel, and a pair of spaced projecting portions extendinglengthwise of thebodyf for separating said prising a hollowb'edy-harvin-g a; channel pfio- 10 channels.- I I Videdwith meansforfolding'the edge of the 25. Binder mechanism for pile binding stripover upon the body of the strip, said strips colnprisii'ig ineans forapplying: an body also having a channel for confining 5 edge thereof-t0an a1t-icle, and'fixed and adthe pile of said strip.

justable means fer guiding said edge, one Signed at Nyaek, N; Y., this27th day 0f15 thereof effective to deflect the'pile of the r h 1922.strip away fromtheedge of the pile.

' 26". A binder for pile binding strip-s, eoin- ALBERT 1 1 W E15.

